Day 8: Rawlins, WY to Saratoga, WY

Today I did three things I have never done on a bike: 1) ride on a limited access highway (I-80), 2) ride on a limited access highway on the wrong side because that side has been closed to car/truck traffic due to construction and the right side is not safe for bicycles, and 3) ride against the traffic for a short distance after it was re-opened to cars/trucks and then exit down the “wrong way” ramp. Maybe that counts as four things?

I was nervous about riding the “normal” way on the highway, but I assumed, correctly, that the shoulders would be quite wide, making avoiding debris the only real issue for the 5 or so miles we rode as planned.

However, the ride took a twist when we saw that traffic would no longer be permitted on the other side of the meridian and traffic both ways was sharing “our” side. It was not too bad until we came to an overpass and there was virtually no shoulder! We saw some of our friends had gotten off at the exit right before this overpass, but we had gone past that option. We were able to get down to them though and learned that the SAG driver said no one was to go further on I-80.

There was all the usual type of chatter about what we should do and the amount of time it might take for the van to get to us and shuttle us through the construction zone, when a truck pulled up and told us that we could ride on the “dead” side where the roads had been paved, but there was zero traffic. It was pretty cool to have the pristine road all to ourselves. It was the best ride of the day!

Exiting was, however a bit more of a challenge. Some chose to cross the meridian and two lanes of traffic to exit the highway where we were scheduled to. I did not! I went with the group that walked around a barricade and then rode on the fairly wide shoulder as oncoming traffic came towards us. That left exiting and since we were already going the wrong way, it didn’t seem like too big a leap to exit down the “wrong way.” That brought us to the other group and together we resumed our planned ride!

The rest of the ride was nice, but continued to have the same challenging cross-winds/headwinds that we have had for some time now. The views were nice but not spectacular. Getting close to our final destination was fun for me because it was in Saratoga, WY and there were lots of Saratoga signs: “Saratoga 4-H” “Saratoga Lake”, etc. even the hotel was Saratoga Hot Springs and Resort, which seemed curiously like something we might have in “our” Saratoga! It would have made a lovely location for a rest day, but that was not to be.

Saratoga Lake sign

And the lake. That is no lake- it is nothing but a pond!

This pool is reportedly naturally 102-108 degrees

The hot tub under this teepee is a lot hotter!

Days 5, 6 and 7: Getting to, relaxing and two departures from Lander, WY

On this trip, the elements have been a major factor. We had rain, then thunderstorms, then sleet/snow and more rain. Then we had an amazing ride to Lander and everything changed. Now wind is the main factor, but the sun and heat are quite evident as well!

As a yoga teacher, I dabble in Ayurveda. I don’t know a lot about it, but it interests me as it is an ancient system of medicine that focuses on diet and balance within the body. There are three doshas in ayurveda and knowing which is your dominant one and the influence of the other two is important. I am a very strong pitta. Totally imbalanced and essentially pitta and pitta alone. Who cares and what does this have to do with riding in WY?

Pitta is all about heat. The fire element, sweat. Type A, driven types are often pitta-dominent. It generally means that spicy food should be avoided because they build heat. My two favorite cuisines? Mexican and Indian. Hot. I am drawn to my own excesses. I am not drawn to hot weather. I get really hot. I sweat… a lot!

And that brings me back to wind. I love wind. I grew up sailing and I love to be out on the water and feel the wind.

Wind is often associated with the vatta dosha. People who are vatta-dominant often are artists and tend to be a little flighty. That is not me. But wind does often cool down something hot. Of course, wind spreads fire, but it feels so good when one is hot to have a breeze- even a warm breeze can feel so much better than hot, still air.

My love of wind has been challenged in the last two days. Yesterday was a beautiful ride from Lander to Jeffrey City, but the crosswinds made it challenging. Challenging isn’t bad, it is perfect for a Type A pitta. Today however was a different story! We had crosswinds and headwinds and they were unrelenting over our 67-mile route. Many times I felt I could not go on. Many times I felt like I was on a stationary bike and that I was not moving. It is a bit of an exaggeration, but not much, to say we could not coast at all today. Even the downhill stretches, infrequent and short as they were, required pedaling to avoid being blown into traffic by the crosswinds.

I found myself calculating over and over when I would get to the hotel: mostly because I was afraid I wouldn't make it for dinner. My speed would pick up a little and I would recalculate, it would slow down, so again I would have to figure out my new ETA. It was a hard day, a really hard day. But I made it. And in time for dinner! I am too exhausted to fully appreciate the accomplishment tonight. I’ll think about it on the bike tomorrow!

Day 5: Rest day spent shopping at bike shops ans exploring this very cool local geological attraction.

At the gorgeous top of a long climb on Day 6: Lander to Jeffrey City.

One of the two businesses in Jeffrey City.

The second of two businesses in Jeffrey City. I only ate potato chips out of the bag.

We didn't yet know how hard Day 7 would be!

This picture was probably an excuse to stop and get off the saddle on Day 7, the hardest day sobfar

Day 4: DuBois, WY to Lander, WY (74 miles)

Wow, what a difference a day makes and what an amazing ride we had today! Oh yeah, tail winds are fabulous too!

It was cool when we left Moran, but the sun was out so it didn't feel too bad. I had layers though I wasn't sure I would shed them. There was not a big difference between the predicted high and low temperatures. But there was a big difference, at least it felt so on the bike. My arms were exposed for the first time since arriving in West Yellowstone. I can feel the effect of sun on my face. That may not seem like a lot but after rain or snow every day, so far, it was very welcome!

One of the amazing things about today's ride was that we left the mountains of Yellowstone and the Tetons for the wide open expanses of Wyoming. However, every view was framed by snow capped mountains. Unfortunately, my phone’s camera did not do the views justice. They were simply too big and my camera (and me) too small.

We now are in Lander for a rest day tomorrow and then some shuttling for two days due to lack of accomodations at our next ride’s end point. That led to some thinking about roommates- this rotation would be for three nights, not just one. There was also the possibility of hitting the jackpot and getting a single for this extended stay.

Because we have an odd number of women in the rotation, each stay means one of us gets a room to ourself and since we don't rotate at a single hotel, the lucky woman drawing that room here would have a single for 3 nights! My roommate was hopeful she might be the lucky woman, but I knew I would not be as I had a single the first night. There are advantages to sharing a room on a rest day though. It does provide a ready woman to explore the town with or clean bikes with. It might feel a bit lonely without that connection. Maybe…

Apparently, it isn’t just a Jackson, WY thing.

Much of our ride was on the Shoshone Reservation.

Day 3: Moran, WY to DuBois, WY … by van

When we woke up this morning, it looked as though the predictions for snow may have been grossly exaggerated. It was cold, but dry. Then it changed to cold and rainy. Then cold and snowy, really snowy! I was on the fence when it was cold and dry knowing that rain and snow were predicted. By the time we had finished breakfast, the rain had started. We regrouped to learn that the Togwotee Pass we were to go over was getting snow. Shortly thereafter it started to snow at our hotel and that sealed the deal for me. It was a day for me to pass on cycling.

The logistics of getting 30 of us up and over a very snowy pass are not easy, but our guides made it look like it was. Some women chose to ride all the way (2 succeeded) and others took a bump to the 19.5 mile marker where the snow had turned to rain (temps were up to the low 40s) and then ride the final miles into DuBois.

The rest of us chose to ride all the way to DuBois and I don't think any of us have regrets.

Last night, my assigned rotation roommate was Mike (female). I was already in our cabin when Mike got to the door and there was another woman with her. Miriam is doing a cross-country ride in stages as we are, but she is doing it unsupported and going in the other direction. She had come over the pass during the thunderstorms we had yesterday. She was dripping wet and Mike had invited her to stay inside with us. Her plan had been to camp because the hotel was too expensive to justify. Having her with us was really nice and she was totally impressive to us on our fully-supported journey. This AM she put on “all the layers” and rode off down the hill we climbed yesterday. I messaged her and learned she decided to stop when she got to the bottom of the hill as she was soaking wet and cold. There was a male cyclist on an unsupported trip who decided to stay put at the hotel and not risk the ride over the pass today.

All in all it was a day, in my opinion, best spent off the bike! I am looking forward to tomorrow's ride to Landers, WY. Temps are supposed to be in the 40s and 50s. There is no rain - or snow- predicted! Onward!

Cabins at Togwotee Mountain Lodge

The snow begins to fall

Brave women head out

Frozen chains and icy conditions force a change in plans for some

No snow in DuBois, but lots of churning, red water outside our room’s window!

Day 2: Jackson, WY to Moran, WY (Sept 10, 2019)

Today's ride provided a wide variety of weather, which I find provides me with a wide variety of emotions. When we left Jackson, it was surprisingly nice. We had expected overcast and cool, with showers a possibility, but that was not what we had. The sun was shining, it was a little warm and pretty much a perfect day to ride a bike. Heading out was filled with happiness and gratitude for being able to do this amazing journey.

As I was leaving the Grand Teton National Park, it started getting colder and less pleasant. I found myself thinking about the Buddhist idea that our suffering comes from grasping. Most often, I find that to be true, but rarely in the very literal sense that I did today. I realized that as it got colder, I got more tense and gripped my handlebars more tightly. In addition, my feet pushed more forward into my shoes’ toe box leading to my feet having pins and needles. When I was able to relax my hands and feet, I was much more comfortable: I suffered less!

But despite my awareness of at least one source of my suffering, the 8-mile climb at the end of today's ride was not easy. The grade was not extreme, it topped out at 8-9%. The length was significant but doable. Altitude made it more challenging. The possibility of bears in the road caused concern. But the approaching storm was what made me the most anxious.

When I used to sail with my Dad, I was well-known for wanting to quit racing when thunderstorms were approaching. He often resisted, but acknowledged that I never “made” him quit a race that wasn't ultimately cancelled. My early warning system meant we got to shore sooner than the “tougher” competitors who waited for it to be cancelled.

On a bike, it feel the same fear but there are fewer options. Today, the best one was to keep going up the hill. My Dad (who died 2 years ago) would have enjoyed that I made it to the final destination just as the storm was getting big. I sent a little thanks to him. There might have been a tear or two as well. I miss him terribly.

So excitement for tomorrow? Snow! Stay tuned…

Elk antler arch in Jackson, WY

What????

If only…

Day 1: West Yellowstone to Grants Village, WY (Sept 9, 2019)

Yesterday's kick-off ride was damp and chilly. I was glad that Margaret and I had explored the park in the preceding days because it was not the kind of day that made me want to go off the main road and explore. However, it was fun seeing parts of the park at a “bike pace” rather than that of a car. Early on we saw an elk cow on an island in a creek. I likely would have missed it in a car. Several other tour members and I found ourselves likely sharing the same shoulder with a bison. We opted to “take the road” and mix in with the cars rather than asking the bison to share the shoulder with us!

In a stroke of luck and good timing, we arrived at Old Faithful right as it was erupted.

There were two continental divides to provide us with markers on the way to Grant’s Village. Our ultimate destination on Day 1 was Jackson, WY. However, commercial cycling is not permitted on the southern road out of the park because there is no shoulder. So we all met at the Visitor Center in Grants Village, loaded up the van, SAG and a contracted company to help with the rest of the bikes and riders.

We passed Jackson Hole on the way to Jackson proper. It seemed like an interesting little town, but we weren’t there early enough to really explore it and we left before much was open on Day 2.

Geysers in Yellowstone

Old Faithful

Continental Divide #1

And #2

The final post on TA 1 - finally!

A number of people commented that it did not feel like there was a last post about the first leg of our Transamerica ride last year. There is a reason for that: it didn't feel like the leg actually finished. The final day's ride was cancelled due to cold and snow. Some amazing women chose to ride anyway, but most of us did not. We got out of the snow and into the van and we drove to West Yellowstone, the final destination of the first leg. And we all said goodbye and we went home. It was all kind of anti-climactic and it didn't feel like I had much to say about it.

Today a group of us rode that final leg. We rode our bikes from Ennis to W. Yellowstone as we had planned to do 11 months ago. That ride is now complete.

I am not one to feel like I need to ride every mile. Last year there were a couple of legs that had portions that did not feel safe for me personally. The route was safe and the support fabulous, but it was not for me on those days. So I chose to ride short distances in the van. I am fine with those choices and I would make those decisions again.

But this was different. It was the final leg. The entire final leg. We didn't finish on our bikes. It just felt incomplete in a big way for me. Not everyone felt that way. Not all of us rode it today, but for me, and perhaps the others who rode, it finished something that felt undone.

I am very grateful to WomanTours for letting us ride those last 71 miles today. I am looking forward to our first leg of TA2, which takes us into Yellowstone National Park. I have spent a week exploring it with Margaret, but doing so mostly by car is very different than by bike. When we ride the pace it allows me to see and hear things I never would from a car.

I really wanted to see a grizzly this week and yesterday I did. I do NOT want to see a grizzly while on my bike. I do not want to see many bison blocking the road as we did in the car. I really do not want to meet any wild animals while on my bike, but I am excited to see and hear the Park in a new way. Onward!

Osprey! Seen on a more typical September day in 2019.

Sue makes a snowman on what was to be the day of our final ride into West Yellowstone in 2018.

Pre-ride fun!

Margaret came with me to spend a few days in and around Yellowstone before this year's ride begins. So far we have spent two packed days on the Grand Loop through the park. Tomorrow we are going to move beyond the loop itself to add some “out and back” excursions.

Once the ride begins, we are only in the park for one day and part of another, so it is fun to explore the park together. Here are some of the highlights:

Elk bull relaxing in the grass near the West Entrance.

A beautiful spot to dip one’s feet.

Hexagonal cliffs

And of course… Bison!

Two major steps along the way to ride

One: Today I received notification that the bike shop in Bozeman, MT has completed the assembly of my bike!

There was a communication issue with my bike shop and that made it touch and go for a couple of days, but it was resolved and my beloved Georgena Terry is ready for me to oick up at noon tomorrow!

Two: I have determined that I am done with the packing/repacking/questioning choices/ repacking/pulling things out of bags/putting things in bags and, of course, weighing/compulsively weighing my bags. When the alarm goes off at 3:00 am tomorrow morning, what is in my bags now will be what goes with me to Bozeman and beyond.

Onward!

All packed!

It Gets Real

Before every bike trip there is a point at which it all gets very real. This is that point for the TransAm leg 2.

Last night I received and downloaded all the Ride with GPS routes. There were so many! Each representing a day of cycling to come. Then today I will take my bike to my bike shop for it to be disassembled, packed and shipped to Montana. I will see it next when I arrive.

I can’t get much fitter before we ride. I can't really lose any extra pounds before we ride. I have to accept that I am as ready as I am going to be this year! I can't wait, but I am scared and anxious too. I can. I will. End of story.

Training for TransAm 2

A year ago at this time I was much more anxious than I am today. I am not sure that is a good thing, because that anxiety fueled my training. Less anxiety seems to be manifesting as less training.

Training to do something “again” is different from training to do something for the first time. Obviously, it isn't really the same, but the general arc is the same: Biking across approximately one-quarter of the country in approximately one month with a group of about 30 fabulous women. But the terrain will be different, the weather will be different, some of the women will be different, and I will be different. The biggest difference is that I am much more confident in my cycling and in myself. So it really isn't the “same.”

But about that training…Last year the gym I went to regularly and loved was falling apart. There was drama and there was gossip. Their was stress. I decided to leave, effective July 1, 2018. My plan was to train in a space I created for myself. I had an online coach, who was fantastic. I had a cycling training plan. I just had to execute. That was harder than I expected. I thought I could do it (mostly) all by myself. I couldn’t. Well, I struggled to do it consistently (mostly) all by myself. I trained enough, but there were days on the trip that would have been better if I had trained more

When I got back from the ride last year, my gym was in free fall. What had been a clear, but gentle, downhill trajectory was now careening towards a bottom and it was not a pleasant place to be. It closed its doors shortly after I left in November 2018.

I had found, through the positive side of social media, a very different gym. Though it was still CrossFit, it had from what I could tell, a very different energy. I fell in love online and knew it was the place for me. Some of my friends from the old gym went there too, which eased the transition, but it wasn’t really hard at all. The online impression I had formed did not disappoint. Until Friday.

I got an eblast to members from the owner telling us she had sold the gym to a couple who seemed quite nice. But I drove an hour to go there for the owner and coaches and they would all be gone. I am sure I could stay and get good workouts. But what made me drive the hour was something else, and that will be gone one week from Friday, when the transfer is finalized. I gave my notice, effective 7/1/19-exactly a year after I did the same at my previous gym

Of course, I couldn’t help but think of when Zaidee handed over the reins of the yoga studio to me just over a year ago. Some people did leave here too, but many more stayed. And many more have joined. The transition was a bit bumpy, but it got better.

And, I soon realized, that is the answer to my current training challenge. For about 30 seconds I felt like I didn’t have a community to train with now. But that is just stupid. Of course I do, and it isn’t online or an hour away. It is right here in Greenwich. It is the people I train and those who are members of the studio. It is in my little “Baltic Ave” gym that is a part of the Move to Live business that I use with my personal training clients. In the coming days, I will invite more of you into that space, because that will make it a great place to be and workout. It will never compete with the three (!) big gyms in Greenwich, but I never wanted that and It doesn’t have to. It is a perfect space for a few fabulous (mostly) women to train together to get stronger.

I have learned a million times by now that even though I am an introvert and I am super-independent, and even though it is hard for me to reach out to people for help and community, things get much - SO MUCH- better when I do! I am not going to do this alone. I am asking all of you who are local to come train with me! Together we will accomplish all of our goals! I will ride the remaining 3 legs of the TransAm bike ride! I cannot wait to hear what you will do! #icaniwillendofstory and to steal a hashtag from a place I will miss: #strongertogether

Day 24: Dillon to Ennis, MT (70.5 miles)

It was a cold morning when we left Dillon heading to Ennis. We knew it was a long day with the toughest climb at mile 60, so many of us were anxious to get started even though it was close to freezing. What was a little different about this ride was that there were a few towns along the way, which offered us the possibility of getting off our bikes and warming up.

At mile 37 or so most of us stopped at the Town of Sheridan to get some coffee. As I got off my bike, Cy came over and showed me a text from Margaret saying that she needed to reach me. With one bar on my phone, I tried to call her and after many failed calls, I learned that my beloved dog, Sasha was sick and in the hospital with an unclear prognosis. I was devastated. But there was nothing I could do. I had a quick cup of coffee and had to get out of the shop. I didn’t want to talk with anyone. I just wanted to get back on my bike. I felt better when I was riding.

It was a nice ride, but I couldn’t really enjoy it thinking about Sasha. I tried, but I couldn’t really get there. What I did know was that there was a 5 mile climb starting at mile 55. After mile 60 it was essentially down hill to the cabins in Ennis. As I got close to mile 55, I realized I was tired and not really feeling strong for a climb. I knew it wasn’t the hardest climb we had done - it probably wasn’t in the top five, but I was tired from the day before. I didn’t feel strong, physically or mentally. And as it had been, it was really cold and windy.

I made it to the top, but was not feeling well when I got there. I couldn’t really understand the question Carolyn, the SAG driver, was asking me. I didn’t think I could go on, but I couldn’t quite figure out how to answer the question. Between the cold, exertion and altitude, I was really not feeling well. Carolyn was anxious because the two women who had reached the summit before me were similarly impacted by the cold. Probably the strongest cyclist arrived first and rode her bike in a circle for a few minutes saying she didn’t feel well at all. She concluded that she felt so bad that she was going to head down. Carolyn did not think that was a good idea at all and it made her worry about the rest of the women coming up the hill. I decided to help her out for a while and we drove down the hill and accounted for all but one of the riders. They all said they were fine. I had warmed up and was ready to ride again. We picked up another woman and found a place where we could get out and safely ride down. How many ways can I describe how cold I was?

Ennis was a very cute town. And the cabins in Ennis were quite nice and the staff could not have been more accommodating. They had the heat turned way up for us when we arrived, and when even that wasn’t enough for us, arranged to address “the heat emergency” with additional space heaters. We had a "Thanksgiving” dinner which hit the spot fo many, if not me, so much. The conversation over dinner was focused on the next day, our final riding day. Snow was likely. Who thought they would ride in the snow?

Day 23: Jackson to Dillon, MT (48 miles)

What a difference a day makes. Most of our group from the close to 100 miles from Sula to Dillon in one day. I decided to split it up into to two days: Sula to Jackson and Jackson to Dillon. There were several reasons why I made the decision: I knew both parts of the ride were among the most beautiful of the trip and I wanted to truly appreciate both. I felt the best way to appreciate both parts of the ride was to ride it as two, not one. What I did not know was there was a dramatic change in weather in store.

On the first day, the riders had sunshine and a tailwind for the second 50 miles. On the second day, the day I did this ride it was cold and there was a beast of a head wind. There was a climb starting at about mile 12. I had to fight my way just to get there. I was working hard to go forward on a slight decline. When I started to go up, it was near impossible. I felt many times as though I was actually losing ground against the freezing wind even as I pedaled with as much strength as I had. And I was really cold. I got sweaty climbing the hill and then the cold got to my wet self. I do not generally ride in low 30s temperatures and I did not have enough experience with layers on a cold climb. By the time I got to the top of the hill I was really cold. I was so happy to see Cy there at the peak. I climbed into the van to warm up. Deb was next to the summit and she joined me in the warm comfort. A couple of riders just went on without stopping at the summit, and that convinced Deb that she was going to go too. I decided to take a bump down the road a bit and hope for better weather when we dropped down into the valley a bit. I simply cannot tolerate that cold. I was in a lot of pain.

A couple of miles made a big difference. The temperature rose to 45 and the wind was not nearly as cold. I was able to enjoy the rest of the ride, which included another pass and then a 20 mile downhill into town. On the previous day, some of the other women clocked speeds that were unbelievable to me. The fastest was over 51 MPH. I would never go that fast, but I had to work to get into the high 20s. The wind was still a factor! It was a beautiful ride, but I chose not to stop to take pictures.

I was really happy to reach Dillon. I was tired and cold. I also had a Patagonia coupon burning a hole in my virtual pocket thanks to my friend Kitty and some Camp Little Notch connections. Dillon offered a variety of options for us and we had a great time there. But that day was a sign of a weather system change that would impact the rest of the trip.

Day 22: Sula to Jackson, MT - 51.1 miles: CONTINTENTAL DIVIDE!!!

Montana does not disappoint for amazing biking. We started from our cabins early and it was very cold. We got an earlier start today than we have been the last few days. It was dark when we went out for breakfast and just light as we started out on an 8.0 mile climb to the continental divide at just over 7200 feet. The climb itself wasn’t too hard, but the fact that it was early and cold and we had no time to warm up made it challenging. However, it felt great to get to the marker!

The descent was (again) so very cold. I had more layers to put on and it was not raining or I might have taken the same approach to this descent as I did from Lolo Pass a few days ago. However, I decided to suck it up and go down. But I did suffer for the rest of the day. Once my hands and feet get cold, it is like a switch goes off inside and they don’t warm up. Based on what I know of CRPS, I think it is more that the nerves keep sending the “I’m freezing” signal even after they should stop doing so. There is simply no convincing them that in fact it isn’t so cold anymore.

After the amazing climb and freezing descent, the terrain opened up and we were in amazing wide open spaces, with split rail fencing for miles and miles along the road and river. Again, my eyes were peeled for wildlife, but to no avail. I was so disappointed. Then, shortly after the first SAG stop at 23 miles out, there were antelope! And the first couple were just that - I continued to see them periodically throughout the rest of the ride. How great that was! The first couple were young and they seemed to be playing together. Then there were three that seemed older and more interested in the couple of us that stopped to take pictures. Then there were more who were playing with the cows in a pasture along the route. So many antelope! Finally, an animal I hadn’t seen before and that we don’t have at home!

As we turned to head towards Jackson, the road was fairly straight and flat and we were encircled by mountains. No matter where I looked there was a group of mountains. And we really say why Montana is the Big Sky state. All the pictures I took today show the huge expanse of blue sky and clouds. Simply amazing.

The hotel we were supposed to be at in Jackson changed ownership and is closed, so we headed in a variety of configurations to Dillon for the night. That means we will be here for two nights before we head out on Saturday for our final two days of the trip to West Yellowstone. No more rustic cabins. We are in a Best Western here. While the amenities are “nicer” I do miss the quiet of the woods and the excitement of the possibility of bears. Here my room is next to the hotel laundry, so there are huge plastic carts of dirty and clean linen going in and out, with workers yelling to each other in English and Spanish. The rooms are considered too nice to have our bikes in, so they are all locked up in a room by themselves. Amenities come with a price.

I cannot believe that we have just a couple more riding days.

Day 21: Hamilton to Sula, MT (42 miles)

We were really lucky to be able to spend the day on this route. Montana provides so much beauty that every mile is really a gift. I usually ride mostly by myself, but I rode with Mike (female) most of the day. We talked about what we saw and suggested great photo ops along the way. It was a very nice change for me. The day as a whole was one of the best of the trip and it is up there on my list of best days on a bike.

We have been in the Bitterroot mountains for some time now and they do not disappoint in any regard. Much of our route followed a river winding its way through the mountains and the mountains themselves had burned recently. It was amazing to see that some houses seemed to survive and to see how the vegetation was coming back. There was all this color on the ground and stark black tree trunks sticking up above.

We hoped to see some wildlife, but saw none. There were roadside signs about the efforts to save mountain sheep, but we did not see any. The river seemed like it would be a perfect place for a moose to be, but we did not see any. That was the only disappointment. The land itself was full of beautiful rock formations and gently rolling hills down in the valley along the river.

The road was a major route (US 93) and the shoulders were there some of the time and not at others, but there was not a lot of traffic that when there were cars, they were courteous and gave us space. It had none of the feel of some of the rides in Idaho where similar shoulder situations were terrifying.

The last little bit of the ride was clearly trending up. A sign of what is to come in the next leg of our journey. But before we spent too long on the climb, we turned onto a gravel road and went down into the Lost Trail Hot Springs resort(?). I guess the fabulous hot springs pool does provide it with a bit of a resort feel, but besides the water, resort is not a word that would easily come to mind.

The accommodations last night were very rustic cabins. Three of us shared mine, though I was lucky enough to get the single room. The manager told me when I checked in that they have had a bear around, tossing garbage cans, and suggested that it was important to be careful with food. One of our tour found a bear paw print and took a great picture of the print next to her, much smaller, hand. I decided that I would put my left-over almond butter and jelly sandwich in the small fridge in my room rather than leave it out where it could be sniffed out by a hungry bear. Our cabin did not really seem to be hungry bear proof.

Day 20: Missoula to Hamilton, MT (47 miles)

Today was an unusual riding day in that the entire ride was on a bike path. We turned onto it directly out of the parking lot in Missoula and off of it as we arrived at the hotel in Hamilton. Hamilton is apparently a very fast-growing community due to copper mining here. I did not see evidence of that mining on the way in, but I am not sure I know what I am looking for. What we rode through today seems much more suburban sprawl type community than the places we have been to previously. It feels a long way from the meandering rivers of Idaho. Still beautiful, but not at all the wilderness feeling we had for so many days there.

Being on a bike path allowed us to follow the US Rt 93 path without being in major traffic. That was very nice. The noise of the traffic was ever present, but the cars and trucks themselves were happily not. It allowed me to look around more than usual because I didn’t have to worry so much about holding my line. If I drifted a bit, it was no big deal. So I took advantage and loved every minute of the mountains that were on both sides of us. Those on our side of the road as we rode south seemed to be bigger and rockier. Those on the other side were smaller and more rounded in general. Both were beautiful!

We seem to be entering a weather pattern that will mean dressing in layers and shedding them as we go on through the day. I had on three layers underneath my wind/rain jacket at the start along with a Gore windstopper buff that came up over my head under my helmet. By 20 miles in I was ready to start leaving layers behind in the SAG vehicle. I have an Apicura bag that will hold a lot, but it is fabulous to be able to leave it all in the car on those days when we don’t think we will need to put the extra clothes back on later in the ride. It seems most, if not all of the remaining days of our trip will be in the low 30s in the morning and will get up to the low to mid-60s in the afternoon when we arrive at our next destination. If it all goes as smoothly as today, it will be fine. My purchases yesterday at REI proved to be well-thought out and I was toasty warm when and where I needed to be and the layers peeled off easily so I could stay comfortable all day. Yay!!!

One thing we have noticed as the temperatures drop is that we are not as happy eating our meals outside as we were at the beginning of the trip. Many of us took our breakfasts back into the warm hotel this morning so we could stay warm and the dinners outside have been getting shorter and less chatty as we tend to want to head back inside soon after eating the delicious meals prepared for us in the trailer/galley kitchen. I am getting hungry already and we have two hours before dinner. I have already snacked, so I guess now I just have to wait for 6 pm to arrive!

Day 18: Powell, ID to Missoula, MT (58 miles)/Day 19: Rest Day in Missoula

Cold. Rain. Sleet(?). Lolo Pass. Really cold.

That was pretty much how we came into Missoula on Sunday. While I am sure the views were grand, but most of us were focused on one thing: How cold we were.

The day started with a short “peloton” ride through the rest of the construction. All of us on bikes took the full right lane and the SAG car rode behind us all with her flashers on. The plan was for her to tap the horn three times if a car came up so we would have time to find a safe place to get off the road. During the 1.5 miles, there was just one pickup truck and it was an official ID highway truck and instead of waiting for us, it pulled out and around into the left-hand lane. The best laid plans… Regardless of that one truck’s flaunting of our system, we all arrived safely at the end of the construction zone to ride on to Lolo Pass.

The climb itself wasn’t as hard as others we have done, but the weather made it much less pleasant. Even going up hill I was cold - really cold. I could not climb the way I have been climbing. Every pedal stroke hurt, not my muscles, but my right foot. CRPS makes cold pretty close to debilitating. It is hard to explain the pain the cold causes but it is intense and unlike anything else I have experienced. Because it is so painful, I travel with a heating pad so that I can wrap my hands/feet in it if necessary.

It is a hard thing for me to say I just can’t do “that”, whatever “that” is. Sometimes though it is true that It hurts too much or it brings on pain that last a long time. Cold is one of the things I have to think about that way now. I came to the ride knowing that I might have to say that I can’t ride when it is really cold. I knew I might have to say I can’t do that or I risk not being able to do other rides on other days.

So when I arrived at the top of the pass after climbing for 8 or so miles and was freezing cold after a climb, I could not imagine how cold I would be on the descent. So I took a “bump” and rode to the next SAG stop and then got out and rode the rest of the way. Even though I know it was the right thing to do, it really messed with my thinking. I spend a lot of time trying to counter the messed up nerve signals that are a part of CRPS. I tell myself all the time that the pain isn’t “real” even though I really feel it. I tell myself over and over that there is no real and present pain - it is old pain that I am reliving. I tell myself that I have to keep moving or I won’t be able to. I am determined not to give in to CRPS. However, my experience is that there are times that I do have to say I just can’t do it. And yesterday was one of those days. Now I have to get my head back in the place where it was before, so that I can finish this tour strong and happy with how I rode.

Today we had a rest day in Missoula. I did laundry, I had lunch with friends here at a fabulous restaurant, and, importantly, I went to REI to get more warm clothes! I had brought some cold weather cycling clothes with me, but I don’t ride in the cold very often because I am so sensitive to it. I hope I will be able to be fairly comfortable for the next 6 days. There is snow in the forecast and we will be at higher altitudes soon, where snow and cold temperatures are more likely. It seems quite possible that much of the last 6 days will be about keeping warm as much as it will be about cycling skills. I hope my purchases will help me stay comfortable enough. If I can get to the hotel, my heating pad will be there for me to use to get ready for the next day. Onward!

Day 17: Syringa to (almost) Powell, ID (60 miles)

The ride from the River Dance Lodge in Syringa, ID to Powell, ID continued along the river and it continued to be gorgeous. The power of water was evident everywhere as we saw all different shapes and sizes of rocks in and next to the water. We saw so many huge trees down and washed to their current location. We passed many signs identifying the creeks that flowed into the river. There were rapids and there were places where the river seemed, from the surface, to be still. Miles and miles of spectacular river scenes.

On most days, we have the opportunity to stop at a café or restaurant for lunch, but this area of ID was so remote that there was nothing available to us between the two accommodations. So 40 miles into our ride, our guide Cy met us with the trailer and had a beautiful lunch ready for us. At that time, she told us that she had gotten some additional information about the construction ahead. We had previously been told it was at about mile 60 of our planned 72 mile ride, but a couple of cyclists had come through and said it was much closer than that. Our expectation, based on the guides previous inquiries, was that the highway department would have a school bus to transport us through the portion of the roadwork that was not safe for us to ride.

Much of the road was beautifully smooth and it was evident that there was recent paving on much of our route. However, as those of us who were towards the front of the group rode on, we saw no signs of any school bus. There was no sign of dangerous riding conditions until mile 60 where there was suddenly no middle line and instead “candles” that were spaced in a way that would prevent drivers from passing us and there was no shoulder or safe space for us to pull off onto when a vehicle needed to pass us. We waited and waited for a bus to show up - in vain.

Ultimately, the guides’ investigation determined that the bus was on the Missoula side of the construction not our side and there was no way for us to get to our hotel except by the WomanTours van/SAG car. As is my consistent experience with WomanTours, there was a clear positive attitude and we all loaded bikes and people up and in and we were shuttled through the construction to our next stop in Powell: the Lochsa Lodge.

The Lochsa Lodge was again a series of cabins, but these were much smaller, and more rustic, than those at the River Dance Lodge. I was again in a double and we were among the lucky ones who had indoor plumbing. We were told on our arrival there that there was wifi and that the bar in the main building was the best location for reception. Many of us tried unsuccessfully to connect and gave up worried that our families would be getting increasingly worried when they had not heard from us. We couldn’t get on long enough to even send a “safe arrival” text. We had to hope that they would trust no news is good news.

While the accommodations were quite rustic, the food was very good and the chef at the Lochsa Lodge was the most attentive to my food needs of any of the non-tour chefs. He made me something special for both dinner and breakfast, both of which were delicious and filling. It has been rare that I have been able to share in the desserts on the trip, and while Sue the WomanTours chef has found treats for me occasionally, most of the other venues have left me dessert-less. Not so at the Lochsa Lodge. There was a blackberry cobbler for dessert and I was able to enjoy the fruit without the non-vegan cobbler. It was much appreciated.

Day 16 Grangeville to Syringa, ID (40 miles)

This leg was a few days ago. Until we arrived in Missoula, MT yesterday we were without any cell or wifi service for quite some time. It is a very interesting state of mind in today’s world to be unable to reach anyone. It left most of us quite uncomfortable. It also left our families worried that they were unable to confirm our safe arrival. It is an obvious reality, but it really hit us over the head just how dependent we are on immediate communication.

I think of the ride from Grangeville to Syringa as three distinct rides. The first was in wide open expanses of intentionally burnt fields and lovely rollers to ride up and down. we could see for miles and miles. As we rode we discussed (mostly questions rather than answers) why the fields were burnt that way, what the new planting was in September, what all the straw (vs. hay) is used for. There were few cars and we could ride in small groups and enjoy each other’s company at the same time we enjoyed the scenery.

The second part of the ride was a treacherous descent that was on rough pavement, was miles of the steepest slopes we have encountered with sharp turns. I did not enjoy any of it and several of us chose to walk the steepest sections. Off the bike, I could enjoy the amazing views. On the bike in those parts, I was not able to enjoy anything. I have no regrets, even though it is a goal of mine to become more confident on descents. It was remarkable how different I felt at the same, or faster, speed when I can see what comes ahead. I think my discomfort is a combination of control issues and insecurity in my bike handling skills. I plan to work on both in the coming year.

The third part of the ride took us back to the woods as we followed the Clearwater River into past Kooskia and into Kooskia, ID. We stayed in a group of cabins across the road from the river, and it was beautiful. The cabins were quite nice although the configurations of beds made us alter our usual nights of either singles or doubles. I am usually in a double room, but at the River Dance Lodge, I had a loft room to myself with its own shower, toilet and sink. Downstairs, were two women who usually have single hotel rooms. They had their own rooms, but shared a bathroom. There was a living rom, but it was filled with all three bikes and we didn’t use it at all.

After our arrival, before dinner, we had an Equinox party hosted by three friends who have done many rides together. There was music on a little Bluetooth speaker and it was nice to break the post-ride routine with a party. It really made clear how well we have gotten to know each other at this point in our trip. We weren’t getting to know each other at this party, we knew each other well enough to engage in a different way.

At our map meeting that evening after dinner, we learned of coming road construction that would be the subject of ongoing planning and discussion over the next couple of days.

Day 15: Riggins to Grangeville, ID (50.5 miles)

Yesterday was a rest day and I really rested. I read and I sat around and I walked on the river’s edge, but I didn’t “do” anything at all. Today I rode my bike again.

Today’s ride was the most amazing of all amazing rides on this trip. The first 30 miles were back on US 95, the highway with lots of traffic and iffy shoulders. We rode along the Salmon River, which was beautiful, but nothing could compare to the beauty of Old US 95, which became our route starting at mile 30.

We knew there was a lot of climbing today and we knew it started with that turn at mile 30. We knew there were switchbacks. What we did not know was how spectacular the views would be from the switchbacks! As we were climbing, the valley below got so far away that it was a little surreal that we had actually been down there just a bit ago. One thing that stood out to me, in addition to the beautiful mountains and river below, was the incredible number of small sunflowers that lined the edge of the road we were climbing. They seemed to be smiling at us telling us to keep going. Back and forth we went up this mountain with the sunflowers encouragement.

Then the summit. My ears were popping. It felt really high up. Then came the descent. There were cautions, steep and windy roads are not what I like on descents. I like to be able to see far enough ahead to anticipate how much speed I can handle safely. There was gravel. There was shade, which made it a little more difficult to see the gravel and the uneven places in the pavement. The descent was fun.

What was incredible though was that the terrain was totally different on the way down. Gone were the sunflowers. Gone were the mountains. Now there were various colors of fields as far as our eyes could see. It could not have been more different from what we saw on the way up the mountain. What took so long to climb took virtually no time to come down. And we arrived in Grangeville, ID. It is a small town of just over 3,000. It feels huge compared to the places we have been staying that have fewer than 500 residents.

A couple of us walked to get some lunch at the “Melting Pot Café” where they served Asian, Mexican, Italian and American food. It was not clear if they have a specialty, but all of our food was perfectly fine. We are staying in a Super 8 hotel, which isn’t as quaint as the other recent independent motels, but it is fine in its genericness. And weirdly, we are back on Pacific Time. When we crossed the border into Idaho, we went from Pacific to Mountain time. We have been in Idaho for a few days now, but today as we started our ride we went back to Pacific time. My Garmin was clearly confused - or perhaps it was the satellites - because I gained and lost an hour multiple times until it finally settled into Pacific Standard Time. I do not know when we go back to Mountain time, but I think we do once again before we finish our trip.

To relive this ride with me copy this link: https://relive.cc/view/1855319856